2019年10月11日星期五

Infernal Affairs inside, the watch worn by Tony Leung, is this one!

Europeans have always been keen handmade culture, where hand-made often means high-quality production guarantee. In Switzerland, we visited Hermès Hermes handmade chocolate workshop, which has a flowing chocolate waterfall wall, as well as all kinds of handmade chocolates taste, is a good place to buy the letter.



Day 5 of the European Watch and Culture Tour, still in Lucerne (Lucerne). The highlight of today's trip is to visit the hand-made table at the headquarter of Swiss independent watch brand Chronoswisss.

In order to give friends who love mechanical watches a chance to watch traditional hand-made watches, Swarovski has set up an open-planter workshop in Lucerne. Here, you can watch the watch making process up close, including pixel-grade precision parts and enamel process.

For early players into the circle, Ruibao is no stranger to. This is a Swiss watch brand founded in 1983 in Munich, Germany. At that time coincided with the quartz revolution, a large number of traditional watch factory switch or additional quartz watch production line, only a few brands adhere to the mechanical watch as the core, contrarian innovation and development. One of them is Ruibao.


Oliver Ebstein, CEO of Chronoswisss RUBBER

In Hong Kong, Rainbow has a very good popularity. In the movie "Infernal Affairs", the watch worn by Tony Leung Chiu-Wei is produced by Ruibao. Ruibao every year to participate in the Swiss Basel Watch Fair, with the major well-known brands on the same stage. With excellent hand-Gu Chi Lou, hollow carved, large fire enamel and three-pin design, Ruibao gains a lot of heavyweight awards.

Ruibao Chronograph In 2007, won the German watch fans vote for the best watch gold balance wheel der Goldenen Unruh

Ruibao is the originator of three-pin line watch. Three-pin line, also known as the standard needle, the original Regulator, refers to the hour / minute / second three scale instructions are located in the three separate but central coaxial small dial. Do not underestimate this design, the movement of the structure, modification requires a very deep skill to make high-precision three-pin first-line watch.

Quality production, people are the core. Every watchmaker who is able to enter Ruibao is a top artiste with many years of experience. In Switzerland, we have the honor to communicate with top watchmakers. Ruibao has a hand both Ji Gu engraved engraving skills and enamel dial production techniques double clever hand. Watchmakers who skillfully use traditional watchmaking are the most important assets of every watch brand.




Pure hand-made guipure dial, time-consuming and complicated. The watchmaker rotates the blanks on a special engraving machine and decides how to make a large, guilloché dial based on beauty, functionality and durability.


The production process, if the slightest deviation, the dial directly invalidated because of unqualified Gu Lou dial, as long as the careful observation, we must see flaws. This does not hide under the naked eye of the production accuracy, it is unspeakable.



Mr. Ebstein, the CEO of RUBBER, said that a seasoned watchmaker and a guilloche dial yield around 70%. And this flexible and complex process, can not be replaced by computer processing.

Gu Lou dial semi-finished products

The machine used to make guilloche has been used for more than 93 years. Printed on the table in 1924 enabled the mark, to say that heritage, I think this table will be able to verify the body.


More than handicrafts Gu Lou a higher level of skill, in recent years the hot enamel dial craft. We often hear enamel, in fact, with the dial enamel production process is very similar.

Enamel dial semi-finished products

Enamel dial production, there are 3 kinds. The most common is the coloring process. First make good with wisp of embryo plate, and then special mineral pigments, a sum, a layer of uniform color. After each layer of color, the dial will be placed in a high-temperature oven for baking color, and then polished, and then re-color, bake, and again and again.





One of the errors, such as baking temperature is not sure, the enamel dial will be cracked; no matter how high degree of completion, as long as flaws, the dial has lost its value.

At present, even the watchmaker with 10 years of watchmaking experience, the success rate of the enamel dial will not exceed 50%, rare but expensive. It is also due to the public consumer lack of enamel dial appreciation, there are many manufacturers will not perfect enamel dial made of high-priced watches for sale, however, the value of these watches, the use of defective dial that moment, it has been large discount. If it is the use of micro-painted enamel dial, as long as there is a flaw, it is not eligible as collectibles.

Compared with the coloring enamel, micro-painted enamel is more elegant production. In addition to the need to carefully draw mineral pigments paints, can not appear over color, color and so on, also need to play art cells, the portrayal of the portrayal of the artistic gesture. A complete, beautiful, colorful hand-painted enamel dial, often has a high collection value. If accompanied by the same weight exquisite movement, this watch is definitely a collection of plaything.


There is also a filigree enamel, as the name implies, is thinner than the hair of raw materials in the embryo plate a trace of fill, and then follow-up processing. This process takes a huge amount of time and requires almost the highest standards of watchmakers and raw materials. Therefore, the use of filigree enamel watches are top commemorative watches or limited edition watches on the market, which are expensive.

Of course, in addition to the above mainstream technology, there are special particles of enamel dial, this process is relatively simple, but in order to maintain high color saturation, durability, raw material selection and handling is very harsh.





Ruibao watch, mostly known as the complex process. The watchmakers in the least, to produce high-precision hollow carved, second jumper, chronograph, complex movement and so on. In addition to focusing on the watch, Ruibao also hand by the hand of the table, for high-end consumer groups to provide pure hand-made gemstone jewelry, ladies pendants with enamel process, men's suits cufflinks and other fashion accessories.






In addition to plump wrist watch introduction, we also observed by magnifying the eyepiece gossamer, escapement, winding and other fine components, the accuracy is very high, but also because of this experience, aroused the enthusiasm of the winding fish play disassemble movement .


After the visit, all the departure to Lake Lucerne, ready to take cruises to view the scenery. I will not speak - I will take tens of millions of Saphir cruises to the sea ~ tschüss



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