Wearing the watch on hand, you can light if nothing, you can also see the vast sky, this is 2017 SIHH gives us the impression.
This is a serious feast of watches, like a mechanical technology and new materials science forum.
The use of new technology materials in advanced tabulation watch to achieve more extraordinary function - material science and advanced watchmaking marriage has long been.
Materials science carbon fiber
For example, Roger Dubuis, this year the king series four spinner balance new watch, case, bezel, back and crown are made with MicroMelt® technology cobalt-chromium alloy, the alloy has a very good biocompatibility Sex, to solve the wearer on the part of the metal allergy problem.
Another king of series carbon fiber watches, as its name suggests, the application of the code T700 carbon fiber material, in addition to the case, the movement of the main plate, bridge and tourbillon upper frame is also made of the material.
Carbon fiber materials in the past few years, more applications in the automotive field, the top sports car in pursuit of higher speeds, the body will make extensive use of such high strength, light weight carbon fiber to ensure body safety while reducing vehicle weight.
Roger DuPont uses carbon fiber, but also fancy its high strength and low weight Features: lighter weight of the tourbillon frame rotation, wear less power; case, slab and plywood are more solid and secure, better protection Watch stable operation.
In this SIHH, there are two brands invariably use carbon fiber materials, one is Panerai, one is Richard Mille.
Panerai new watch PANERAI LAB-IDTM, case made of carbon fiber called CARBOTECH material. Carbon fiber is a type of carbon fiber-based composite material, each with different processes, so each have a patent and name, but its high strength and low weight of the material properties, is the same.
In addition, the dial covered with a layer of carbon nanotube coating, to absorb more light, so that the dial looks more black; movement also uses a large number of carbon-containing composite materials, reducing the dependence on lubricants, the brand said, Warranty on the watch for 50 years, which far exceeds the warranty period of the current watch.
The new carbon fiber table by Richard Mille is the new RM 50-03 in collaboration with Formula One team McLaren. A tourbillon chronograph is a big complication, but thanks to the use of titanium and carbon fiber, the weight of the movement is only 7 grams, together with the strap less than 40 grams.
Of course, Richard Mille, known for his use of high-tech new materials, can not count on using only carbon fiber, and they've done a few. So, the Graphite TPTTM carbon fiber used by RM 50-03 was also added with graphene.
Graphene was first isolated by scientists at the University of Manchester in 2004 and won the 2010 Nobel Prize in Physics. For the first time, Richard Mille uses graphene for wristwatches.
In theory, graphene is also a kind of carbon fiber material, but its structure is more special. Its carbon fiber characteristics are more powerful. Its density is less than one sixth of that of steel, but its strength is two hundred times that of steel.
Carbon fiber materials, in the future, there may be more brands, more watches to use, as in the previous years is also a new watch titanium materials and precision ceramics, two kinds of materials can alleviate the problem of skin allergies, and titanium in the Strength and lightweight, but also the best partner of carbon fiber.
2. Materials science of titanium, ceramic and K gold
Nowadays, titanium and ceramic materials are already the conventional configuration of wristwatches.
Parma Johnny Bugatti series, this year added a titanium metal timing chronograph, compared to the 18K gold version, light is a notable feature of this watch.
In addition, the table added two tachymeters, one is the display of high-speed chronograph seconds hand, from 60km / h to 2000km / h, used to measure the speed of the car; the other is the 30-minute display of low-speed integrated disk, the main Show 2km / h to 10km / h, used to measure the speed of the wearer during walking or running.
Audemars Piguet is rich in Royal Oak Calendar line, adding a black ceramic models, the movement and the previous steel, 18K gold style consistent, with the exception of Japan, the moon, the stars show, with the love of Perpetual calendar week unique display.
Lange is expanding the family line of honey gold material, the introduction of honey gold ZEITWERK DECIMAL STRIKE watches. Compared with the traditional 18K gold material, the honey gold has higher hardness and better friction resistance and longer lasting color. It is the patented technology of Lange's own.
This watch function also adds a new watch to the ZEITWERK series: Unlike the previous STRIKING TIME, this watch continues the technical characteristics of last year's MINUTE REPEATER, in 10 minutes rather than engraved clock.
So you see, Haute Horlogerie is not only a time of technical innovation and heritage, the introduction of new materials science tabulation, to solve the needs of the watch at the same time, in turn, to promote material science.
3. Watchmaking technology constant power
Next, we go back and look at those advanced watchmaking time mechanical technology, what are the innovations and heritage.
When visitors enter the Lange exhibition hall, first of all see a huge watch model - this is Lange's most complex and most accurate timepieces; in previous years, when entering the showroom you have the opportunity to meet Mr. Walter Lange, Modern Langer founder, and this year's SIHH show, the elderly passed away. Walter Lange legendary life, admirable, table show died during the exhibition, even more sad.
This year the Lange watch model is the TOURBOGRAPH PERPETUAL "Pour le Mérite", the fifth paragraph of the Pour le Mérite series from Lange, which combines the sesame chain drive system, the tourbillon, the chronograph, the chaser and the perpetual calendar five complex Features.
See "Pour le Mérite", we know that the watch is not trivial matter. Pour le Mérite is an authority award from the Prussian era in recognition of special science and artistic achievement. Starting in 1994 with the first modern watch collection, Lange names the most complex and sophisticated timepieces in the brand "Pour le Mérite".
"Pour le Mérite" also means that with a constant power unit, this perpetual tourbillon chase chronograph, using the "sesame chain" transmission system, a small wrist watch, the number of single sesame chain pieces there are 636 many.
Sesame chain from the Pocket Watch era, the use of lever principle, so that the power output winding balance, making the watch full on the chain, and power is about to run out of state, the output torque are the same, to achieve precise timing.
4. Tabulation technology astronomical functions
Lange outside this complex watch, let us a reporter marvel, there is a Vacheron Constantin into a number of complex astronomical functions of the timepiece works.
Years ago, Vacheron Constantin launched a dedicated custom service called Loft Artisan, just as it was two hundred years ago, with key customers customizing watches directly from loft artisans.
This year, Vacheron Constantin added two new pieces for the customization of the loft artisan. One is the Extraordinary Complication with 23 Functions, reference number 3600, including the frontal sun, tides, sunrises, moon phases, and Table back sky picture, star and many other astronomical functions.
Custom watch, the brand has to provide a detailed instructions, in addition to how to adjust the church customers, but also to explain to customers, watch what these astronomical functions mean.
For example, when the sun: we usually say 24 hours a day, is an average, also known as standard time, in fact the orbit of the Earth's revolution is not a real circle, and the Earth itself is ellipsoid, the Earth's rotation and other effects, the length of time is different The wristwatch "sun" function is to show the real time of day.
5. Watchmaking technology and tourbillon
Under the "starlight" cover of this complex astronomical function chart, the other one, the loft artisan, with a reference number of 1860 and a self-styled watch face, looks like a simple menu and looks much lower profile. The watch has a large, small self-muted, and silent mode can be switched.
Big self-Ming is a sophisticated technology spire skills, good ringing watch, not just enough time, the sound should be good to listen. Vacheron Constantin's "loft artisan" was named "symphony big self-willed 1860", showing the super brand of technical self-confidence.
High Perfiss also launched this year, Taciturn watch, saying it was determined when the brand was founded to develop the watch, after 11 years of hard work, this year available, high Perfos designed it for the titanium metal resonator , To enhance the ringing effect.
Exactly the tourbillon, access to collectors favor Goldpuffs, this time big-hearted, fans will once again be crazy?
Speaking of Tourbillon, this year returned to SIHH Girard Perregaux watch, bringing a new "planetarium three-axis tourbillon watch." Tourbillon its own frame rotation 60 seconds a week, the second frame is 30 seconds to rotate a circle, the outermost frame 2 minutes a week, three-axis linkage, the shape of the planets in the universe.
"Planetarium" is implemented through a 12-position realistic moon phase and a "globe" at 6 o'clock. The astronomical moon phase can precisely show the change of the moon phase period, and can adjust one day every 122 years; the micro-society globe rotates for 24 hours and shows the day-night conversion.
6 watchmaking technology mechanical even
Of course, watches and mechanical even since ancient times are inextricably linked, the current SIHH is not out of line. Van Cleef & Arpels Automate Fée Ondine is a clock, mechanical and jewelry and jewelry perfect combination of works.
Clock bottom cover, inlaid ruby ladybug, with the slow movement of the pointer over time, arrived at 12 o'clock, they fly back to the starting point, the next twelve hours of travel.
When the robot starts, the lily leaves blow like a breeze, rippling fluctuations, as the bell sounded, the lotus slowly open, the fairy slowly wake up, watch the butterfly ornamental dance in the corolla. After the Butterfly Dance, return to calm, the fairy is down again asleep, waterlily will be stationary.
This is the current SIHH exhibition, to our reporter left a deep impression: a rigorous material science and mechanical technology forum, and a group to obtain the ultimate works, immersed in mechanical, materials, jewelry craftsmen.
Vacheron Constantin (Vacheron Constantin) (Vacheron Constantin) (Vacheron Constantin) (Vacheron Constantin) was founded in 1755, the world's oldest watch manufacturer, is also one of the world's most famous watch factory. The cross mark on the dial, like the Swiss emblem, is already a symbol of taste, status and wealth. Vacheron Constantin inherited the traditional Swiss watchmaking essence, without interruption, but also many innovative watchmaking technology, a great contribution to the watchmaking industry. Jean-Marc Vacheron, the founder of 1755, and later joined by Francois Constantin, with its prophecy and the ultimate watchmaking technology, finally took the lead in establishing a humanistic gathering of talent and watch kingdom ---- Switzerland, Vacheron Constantin, known for its humanistic spirit and historical heritage. After more than two hundred years of time washing, Vacheron Constantin now seems to be synonymous with "time", but also irreplaceable wrist art works in the eyes of loved ones.
This article is reproduced, does not represent the world position of million table.
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